Friday, August 29, 2014

The Globe, a dome in Plain Sight; Whitney Portal

The Globe, 5.10R Whitney Portal

For some reason this year I hate walking. I don't want to walk further than the car bumper to go climbing. I don't want to shoulder a heavy bag or really see what's further in the back country. I know how much walking will be done down South...With heavy bags and soggy trails...

So I recently have become a sport climber! Once again, clipping bolts is so easy....Taking grand whippers and pushing the limits has been so fun!

But, it was time to take a walk....(Ugh, walking) and put the dancing shoes on and a hammer in hand. High above the Whitney Portal, there is dome in plain sight. So far up the hillside no sane person would want to venture to for some "Pinchie Dome". I casually pointed it out to a few, but why would one want to go that far?

Well, no one has ever said I was sane.  So it was time to drop the Globe. And there is no better partner for such a climb....

Ames and I started by soloing the Adventure Climb, Ummagumma, for 2,000ft. so we could drop in right onto the Globe.  Shwacking and shortcuts never work out and sand slogs still suck!

We went from the bottom to the top for five absolutely, amazing pitches. Burning calves from stance drilling and a wobbly hammer head, about to fly  into the abyss with every swing, made the adventure all the more exciting. Golden granite that resembled that thing in the ditch called El Cap and climbing that managed to still blow our minds, made this day out....Epic! 

Yeah, I know it's only about 600+ ft tall, but it was some of the best climbing I have done for a long time. Three bolts, lots of airy climbing, beautifully bold run-outs and virgin granite... The little red line has been drawn!

Tuesday, August 26, 2014

We got our tickets for Chile!

Heading South! Torres del Paine here we come!

Thanks everyone for your support! We are slowly piecing together every item we need for the trip!

A huge shout out to KAILAS CLIMBING GEAR, THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB(you should all become members), CLIF BAR, ELEVATION SIERRA ESSENTIALS( for keeping Amy employed and all the sweet hook ups)THE WHITNEY PORTAL STORE( for keeping me employed)AND THE RUBBER ROOM(for always doing an awesome job on our climbing shoes).

We fly out on December 3rd and return February 25th. 

The goal..... The East Face of the Central Tower of Torres del Paine!

Amy has been guiding a ton in the Sierras and helping Elevation the rockin' climbing shop in town. She has been kicking some ass in the back country, on some major climbs. I have been.... Cooking... A lot! Still sneaking out though, developing some really exciting sport climbs in the Alabama Hills. Trying to push a different vision out in a place I hold so close. We have bagged a couple big things this year, but not anything really to write home about. We got some exciting adventures coming up that we will clue you in on later.... 

Oh, we also are stunt doubles for a film called GRIPPED. Pretty wild! Get payed to go climbing!

Till then... Keep it real and always find a new adventure in whatever you are doing!

Friday, August 22, 2014

American Alpine Journal!!! Our Recon Article

The Recon Piece for the American Alpine Journal 2014 has finally arrived at our front door...well, in our case, the PO Box:)  Big thanks to Doug Robinson, local climbing legend and dear friend, and Dougald McDonald, editor of the AAJ, for helping us write this piece.  The American Alpine Club is an awesome organization which has given us grants for both our Torres del Paine trips.  It offers free international rescue insurance for members, and sends out an awesome journal each year which features the most significant climbs around the globe.  
The very nature of the Recon piece is to give viewers a secret look at the potential of an now, go get some!


CLIF BAR has decided to give us some goods for our up coming adventure to Torres Del Paine, Chile. Pretty awesome! We have bars for days. We have currently had to hide them in a safe place in our tiny haboad, to keep our grubby hands off of them. Thanks a bunch, to The American Alpine Club, which put Clif in contact with us. A huge thanks to Jeff Deikis from the American Alpine Club and Nikki Ferenz from Cliff and Company for there support and help in making our trip easier. 

Here is what we are heading back South for... The Central Tower! 4,000ft of crazy Granite!

Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Nimbecile Finished!!! IV, 5.11+, 11 pitches, Whitney Portal, CA

Sure, after over a year's time my jugging had gotten a little rusty, and it took me a second to put together the haul system, but big-walling is kinda like riding a have your system, and you don't forget it. 
Portal slab climbing is similar, although it had taken me a few warm-up routes to remember...that, and pulling the mythos out of retirement!

Myles and I actually found the second pitch of this route randomly a few years back- a wild, bolted traverse put up by the slab-masters Darrell Hensel and Johnny Woodward.  We loved it! But after linking "Nimbecile",as they called it, into Nimbus, we looked up and wondered why it didn't continue to the top.

Fast forward two years and lots of mileage and there we were, back in the Portal, gawking into open space.
"We'll just bring one sleeping bag so we can snuggle", my honey says trying to persuade me.   As if he needed to, I was already choosing my pitches.  Some couples go on romantic candlelit dinner dates, we big-wall!

That week we started hiking loads to the base.  It wasn't far, and really we wouldn't have needed much, but May is the beginning of the busy season in Lone Pine, and we both have to work.  No time for week long escapades...who would cook the burgers?  Sadly, we had to do this one siege-style...

We spent our first stint going up the familiar first two established pitches, the first pitch 5.6 fun on the "Portal Buttress Tower" and Nimbicile.  Sieging isn't all bad, however, I took the time to dig out the crack system after the bolted traverse and made a perfect place for a blue TCU...instead of the little nut I had used before!  Don't worry, though, we left the little rubbery tree which makes it all possible:) Myles took the next pitch up one of the Portal's many stellar, hard underclings, which goes for 115'!  We called it 5.11.  That was one. Only three pitches, but everything was awaiting us at our high point for the next go.  We spent a lot of time cleaning and fixing the entire route for rappel, with bolted anchors (thanks FIXE Hardwear)!

 Our first real go with a few days off, we were shooting for a giant bivy ledge. I went up psyched...I was about to lead up what looked like a moderate pitch and stance drill for the second time ever!  Well, as it turns out, moderate is a relative term when you are looking from below.  
I started up the pitch, plugged in some gear, and continued to well above my last good piece.  Placing a crappy yellow TCU in a desperate flake, I yelled down for the kit.  But, oh God, that old thing is heavy!  I get it up to me and lift it above my head...legs doing the sewing machine, I try to readjust over and over again.  It's no use.  I'm coming down.  
Myles had discussed his apprehension about me stance drilling this pitch, which made it even worse.  I get to the anchor and pout.  Well, lets be honest, I start to tear up like a little girl, " I want a lady-drill", I cry.  Myles was very patient, and comforted me for a few minutes before I handed over the rack.  I felt significantly better when, after getting to my high point, he showed some signs of difficulty.  Even higher, it got harder...soon it turned into bolt to bolt.  I was pretty happy that I had decided to let him take it!  3 hours later, I was on belay.  It was now my job to see if the pitch would go free.  Dumping all the excess stuff I should have put in the haulbag before it disappeared onto a piece of gear, I tried the crux.  After hanging once and evaluating the slab, I trusted the little, tiny foot I had found and freed it.  Sweet! No aid pitches yet.  Luckily he bolted it perfectly, too, so if you were to fall leading, the crux is safe.

I came up to Myles'  belay and he talked to me about his vision for the next pitch...more blots on slab.  " Let me check this out first", I say, wanting to lead my pitch without having to bolt!  I traversed down an left and found an awesome wide but not too deep chasm that swallowed me.
No big gear needed, I was actually completely inside for the first 25'.  When I popped out there was a cool dike that cut through an overhanging crack.  I called it 5.8, although, Myles says I'm a sand-bagger.

Two more cruzy pitches had us sitting, exhausted, on our giant bivy ledge...complete with fire wood!  We had neglected to buy a new hand drill before taking off, and we were running pretty low on bolts.  It was time to go down, but not til morning.  I was cashing in on my promised snuggling, firelight bivy!

A storm passed through the Sierra the next week.  Of course, there was no snow in January, and now, in the end of May we have to abandon our attempts.  Luckily, everything was tucked away in one of Myles' custom-made haulbags!

So finally, last week, we were able to get back on the route, this time with a giant in the mix.  Harhi, aka Barrel-Chest, is a seasonal ranger here in Lone Pine.  A crusher on ice, the boy has never really learned about wall-life, and heck, we're always up for entertainment.  The three of u started up the 800' of lines at 6pm...Harhi was nervous.  It's hard as a 5'7" woman weighing a buck 20 to instruct a barrel-chested giant on the art of jugging, but we made it up just in time for dinner and a fire.  

The next morning we awoke hot, with lots to organize before starting up the next pitch.  Myles took the lead with Harhi as belay-slave, while I sorted and coiled our many ropes and got the bag ready to haul.  Just as we expected, the beautiful Yosemite-looking flake ran out, and it was time to drill.  Finding the way, Myles took a fall which jerked Harhi about 5' on the ledge...well, lesson 2 learned quickly.  Watching from afar, I mentioned to my sweetie, " how 'bout a Hook"?  Soon the next bolt was in, and he was climbing in style, taking me right into my corner.  Time to free it.  The climbing was great, and the bolting was, once again, exactly where I will want it when we come back to lead the route in a day.  Hard, definitely, but it went on TR.

I was up.  The fin we had been going for from the ground was finally in our faces.  Cracks!  Being no one had ver touched them before, they had some grit and some moss to deal with, but that's why the leader carries a nut tool!  Getting to the base of the next fin, I was faced with a dilemma...keep going to the base so Myles could go up the crack which looked good but was riddled with giant death blocks we couldn't possibly remove them without hurting something or someone, or stop early so we could hit the beautiful face to stellar arĂȘte.  I chose midway between the two.  After bringing Myles up, the two of us couldn't make a decision..."We'll let Harhi decide", I offered.  Our steady, patient friend arrived a few minutes later, much more efficient in his jummaring from the last two days.  "Do you want burly or pretty?" he asked...give her pretty Myles decided.  Yeah!  Thin, fun sport-like climbing 1'000 feet in the air to the golden granite we've come to worship on the headwall.  

Harhi again belayed as Myles went up, placing two bolts by hand and a piton to get onto the arĂȘte.  Meanwhile, I went down the fixed ropes and scrubbed the last pitch...I actually mutilated my wire brush, but it sure does look good for the next     time.  By the time I returned Myles had almost finished and it was time to climb. It was perfect!  Exactly as I had envisioned it would be.  Up the slab, giant jug, mantel to a flake, and marked by a piton...dream climbing.
The day was done.  We hauled up our bag, and headed to camp.  We knew Harhi was rapping down in the morning, so we toasted the red wine I had snuck in the bag to his help, and slept like kings and queen.

Summit day had finally arrived.  We bid farewell to Harhi and jugged our ropes to the high point.  Finally, just us and he shuttle bucket, going to the top.  

The last two pitches took a lot of route-finding.  First, I took off up a wide crack that looked good from below.  It turned out to be very wide and of kitty litter quality.  A huge bush barricaded me from the finish, so I cut right on a slab and found an awesome #1 hand crack!  The bush also made it impossible to belay and haul the bag, which would inevitably get stuck in the wide, from the same spot.  I had to constantly switch between two anchor points as Myles came up, freeing the bag every few feet...unhappy!

We peeked around to the right where I had joined into the slab- a bit of a jungle, but we knew we could do a good job cleaning and protecting it, but first we had to get to the summit.
Myles started up what appeared to be a pretty undercling, only to discover that, it too ,was crummy rock.  He traversed left to a good stance and after a considerable amount of up and down, side to side, he opted to continue up the last 100' of Mean Streak, clipping it's anchor as pro for the 5.10 slab move.  Finally, we had made it.  Our elation was short-lived, as we realized once again, "what comes up, must go down". 
Myles drilled the first bolt for rappel, and I drilled the second.  Sure, I'm a little slower, but for some reason I like swinging the hammer, especiaaly with our new FIXE drill that protects me from bashing my hand!  We rapped down to the top of my wide pitch and I lowered Myles down to try a different way though the jungle.  As soon as we realized it would go, and was a much better addition  to this awesome line, we began cleaning and pruning.  I drilled another bolt as Myles built terraces and cleaned up the rappel.  

We were exhausted.  We set all the rappels and dropped lines back to our bivy.  When Myles joined me on the ledge he had a huge gash over his calf...apparently, he had some trouble with a tree.  With less than half a gallon of water for eating dinner and drinking until we make it to the store the next day, we go to sleep early, eating dried oatmeal as a snack and dreaming of orange juice waterfalls...

We both had to work the next day, so we got up early and packed our haulbags.  We had to leave the ropes fixed to the bivy ledge as a matter of time, but also to come back with more chain and set the rappels.  Always more work to be done!  All in all, this route tuned out to be awesome!  The climbing is mostly hard, with really good quality that the work is done, we are fired up to go do it in day!

Nimbicile IV, 5.12 11 pitches; Whitney Portal Buttress. Lone Pine, CA
Amy Ness

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Return of the Nimbeciles


Return of the Nimbeciles 

Well... We haven't seen the summit, yet. We had a ton of work to finish elsewhere on the route for the start of day one:

Ames was busy jumaring 300 feet to organize all our wall junk, from the previous attempt. Meanwhile, I was digging mud out of a seam down on the second pitch... getting it nice and pretty. Then Amy had to haul the fat bag, while I pendulumed all over cleaning our gear under the massive third pitch 5.11 undercling. A couple scrubs here and there with the wire brush had the cling looking perfect!

There was an area in the undercling, where we had previously abandoned a cam, due to Ames being a little shorter than I. But, to be honest, it was a huge reach for me to place the TCU. So, with hammer in hand, I welded a Lost Arrow to the eye...Just in reach! Then, the fun.

 I took a double length sling, passed it through the eye and lowered myself as far as I could. Arm fully stretched, about to let go, I hear..."Myles! Should I..." I yell back "Busssy!" then let go of the sling. I went flying through space, running across the wall for thirty feet screaming at the top of my lungs... Totally wild! We finished hauling the bag and got ready for the unknown.

Suddenly, the new pitch, that we thought was going to be easy terrain, turned hard and committing. Wicked face climbing on bullet-hard, red granite turned out to be the crux. Incredibly tough stance drilling and wild moves, unlocked this pitch; to make it one of the best pitches of slab climbing we have found in the Portal. This one hundred and fifty foot pitch, took us around three to four hours to equip and came out to be about 5.11.

With the sun beginning to hide, Amy took the reins. We looked at a crystal dike that would have taken more bolts, which were becoming limited and decided against it. Instead, Amy Jo turned a corner to the west and vanished. The granite swallowed her completely, while she wiggled through an awesome 5.8 chimney, that ended up slashing the crystal dike, exposing all kinds of insane quarts under an overhang. 

Another drag of the bag, drop of a bolt, and weld of an inch-n'-half Piton put pitch 5 put to rest. With it getting darker, we were right on our mark. One more cruisy flake pitch set us at our bivy. A big, fat,sandy ledge had us resting in style. A full moon, mosquitos the size of horses, and a fire that blazed hot, made it just perfect...

The next morning we woke to a burning hot sun. We slowly packed our bags and stripped down to our underwear because of the extreme heat. Once the sun got a little higher in the sky, the temperature cooled. We jugged our fixed line to the cam anchor thirty feet above the bivouac and were disgusted with the looks of the waiting wall...grainy, crappy granite was about to ruin the line... real fast!  

So, we took the time to look around...
We studied it, analyzed it. 

And....oh boy, oh boy did we find it! 

Ames had noticed it from hundreds of feet below, amazed by it's striking beauty, and hoping we just might climb the thin, golden flake.

So, we fixed two baby angles pitons and kissed the crappy granite good bye!

We, cut hard left from our bivy site and stared excitedly at the amazing flake and slab system which would become our only entry into the massive fins we want to climb. A quick look inside the bolt bag had us realizing.... Whoops?!  We were out of hardware. The flake wouldn't be the problem, but the giant slab would be!

  A minor miss calculation that sent us back down our eight hundred feet of line....probably due to the 5.8 slab that turned to a 5.11 bolting mission!

Till next time, when the Nimeciles Return... Again!

Ames in the squiggly Wyde! 

The Bivouac, 800ft up

Finding the way?
Found the way, for pitch Seven.